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2026-08-14·12 min read

Best Cheap PC Upgrades Under $100 to Boost Gaming FPS (2026 Guide)

You don't need a new GPU or CPU to get more frames. These budget PC upgrades under $100 deliver real FPS gains — from RAM and storage to cooling and software fixes that cost nothing.

Best Cheap PC Upgrades Under $100 to Boost Gaming FPS (2026 Guide)

Your GPU isn't slow. Your CPU isn't ancient. But something is holding back your FPS, and you can feel it — stuttering in open-world games, frame drops during intense firefights, loading screens that seem to stretch on forever. Before you start saving for a $500 GPU upgrade, there's a good chance a $30–$100 fix will solve the problem entirely.

The truth is that most gaming PCs aren't bottlenecked by their main components. They're bottlenecked by everything around them: slow RAM running in single-channel mode, a hard drive choking on asset streaming, thermal throttling from dust buildup, or Windows settings that silently steal performance. These are cheap fixes. Some are free.

This guide ranks the highest-impact PC upgrades you can make for under $100, ordered by how much FPS they'll actually deliver. Every recommendation here targets a specific bottleneck that our PC Bottleneck Analyzer flags regularly — these are the issues we see in thousands of real system scans.

TL;DR

  • Enable XMP/EXPO ($0): If your RAM isn't running at rated speed, you're leaving 10–20% FPS on the table. Free fix in BIOS.
  • Add a second RAM stick ($25–$45): Single-channel to dual-channel RAM is the single biggest budget upgrade — 20–40% FPS gain in CPU-bound games.
  • Replace HDD with SATA SSD ($25–$50): Eliminates asset-streaming stutters and cuts load times by 70–80%. One of the most noticeable upgrades you'll ever make.
  • Upgrade CPU cooler ($25–$45): If your CPU is thermal throttling, a better cooler restores full boost clocks and stabilizes frame times.
  • Add case fans ($15–$30): Improved airflow drops GPU temps by 5–10°C, which can mean higher sustained boost clocks and fewer thermal dips.
  • Thermal paste replacement ($8–$12): On systems older than 2–3 years, fresh thermal paste can drop CPU temps by 5–15°C.
  • Software optimizations ($0): Windows power plan, game mode, background process cleanup, and driver updates cost nothing but can recover 5–15% of lost performance.
  • Run your PC through our free bottleneck analyzer to find out exactly which of these upgrades will help your specific setup.

1. Enable XMP/EXPO in BIOS — Cost: $0 | Impact: 10–20% FPS

This is the single most common performance issue we see in system scans, and it costs absolutely nothing to fix.

When you buy DDR5-6000 RAM, it doesn't run at 6000 MT/s out of the box. It runs at the JEDEC default — DDR5-4800 — unless you manually enable the XMP (Intel) or EXPO (AMD) profile in your BIOS. That means your expensive memory is performing like budget RAM.

The impact is larger than you'd think. In CPU-bound scenarios (competitive shooters, RTS games, anything running at 1080p), enabling XMP/EXPO delivers:

  • 10–15% higher average FPS in most games
  • 15–25% better 1% low frames — the metric that determines how smooth a game feels
  • Measurably faster asset loading in open-world titles

How to Enable XMP/EXPO

  1. Restart your PC and enter BIOS (usually Del or F2 during boot)
  2. Look for "XMP," "EXPO," or "Memory Profile" — it's typically on the main page or under an overclocking tab
  3. Select Profile 1 (there's almost never a reason to choose anything else)
  4. Save and exit

That's it. If your system is unstable after enabling XMP, your motherboard may need a BIOS update — check the manufacturer's website for the latest version.

Not sure if your RAM is running at full speed? Our bottleneck analyzer checks this automatically and flags it if your memory is underperforming.


2. Upgrade to Dual-Channel RAM — Cost: $25–$45 | Impact: 20–40% FPS

If you're running a single stick of RAM, this is your biggest bottleneck and the highest-impact upgrade on this list.

Single-channel RAM cuts your memory bandwidth in half. Modern CPUs — especially AMD Ryzen — are extremely sensitive to memory bandwidth. In CPU-bound games, the difference between single-channel and dual-channel is staggering:

Game TypeSingle-Channel FPSDual-Channel FPSGain
Competitive shooters (Valorant, CS2)~180 fps~260 fps+44%
Open-world (Cyberpunk 2077, Starfield)~45 fps~58 fps+29%
Strategy (Cities: Skylines II)~30 fps~42 fps+40%
Battle royale (Fortnite, Apex)~120 fps~155 fps+29%

These aren't theoretical numbers — they reflect real-world testing across hundreds of system configurations.

What to Buy

You need a second stick that matches your existing RAM as closely as possible — same speed, same capacity, same CAS latency. The easiest approach:

  • If you have 1x 8GB DDR4-3200: Buy a matching 8GB DDR4-3200 stick (~$18–$25). Total cost for a 40% FPS boost.
  • If you have 1x 16GB DDR5-5600: Buy a matching 16GB DDR5-5600 stick (~$35–$45).
  • Budget option: If you can't find an exact match, buy a 2x8GB DDR4-3200 CL16 kit (~$30) and replace both sticks. A matched kit guarantees compatibility.

Install the two sticks in slots 2 and 4 (second and fourth from the CPU) — this is the correct configuration for dual-channel on virtually every motherboard.


3. Replace Your HDD with a SATA SSD — Cost: $25–$50 | Impact: Huge Quality-of-Life + Stutter Fix

If you're still running games off a mechanical hard drive in 2026, this is the upgrade that will feel like you bought a new computer.

An HDD isn't just slow for loading screens. Modern games stream assets continuously while you play — textures, models, audio, world data. When the game needs data faster than your HDD can deliver it, you get stutters, pop-in, and frame drops that have nothing to do with your CPU or GPU.

A SATA SSD solves this completely:

  • Load times: 70–80% faster. A 45-second HDD load becomes 8–12 seconds.
  • In-game stutters: Asset-streaming stutters disappear entirely.
  • Texture pop-in: Massively reduced or eliminated in open-world games.
  • OS responsiveness: If your Windows drive is still an HDD, moving to an SSD transforms everyday usability.

Best Budget SSDs for Gaming (2026)

SSDCapacityPriceBest For
Kingston A400 480GB480GB~$25Cheapest path off an HDD
Crucial BX500 1TB1TB~$45Best value — holds 8–12 modern games
Samsung 870 EVO 500GB500GB~$40Best SATA SSD performance and endurance

You don't need an NVMe drive for gaming. The difference between a SATA SSD and an NVMe SSD in game load times is 1–3 seconds at most. SATA SSDs are cheaper, work in any PC (even old ones without M.2 slots), and solve the actual bottleneck — the jump from HDD to any SSD.

How to Migrate Without Reinstalling

Use free cloning software like Macrium Reflect Free or Samsung Data Migration (for Samsung drives) to clone your HDD to the new SSD. The process takes 30–60 minutes and you won't need to reinstall Windows or any games.


4. Upgrade Your CPU Cooler — Cost: $25–$45 | Impact: 5–15% FPS If Throttling

Stock CPU coolers — the ones that come in the box with Intel and AMD processors — are designed to keep the chip alive, not to keep it fast. Most stock coolers allow the CPU to hit thermal limits under sustained load, which triggers thermal throttling: the CPU reduces its clock speed to avoid overheating.

If your CPU hits 95–100°C while gaming, it's throttling. That means it's not running at the boost clocks it's capable of, and you're losing FPS that a $30 cooler would give back.

How to Check If You're Throttling

Open HWiNFO64 or use our PC Bottleneck Analyzer scanner, then play a demanding game for 10 minutes. Check:

  • CPU temperature: If it's sustained above 90°C, you're likely throttling.
  • Clock speeds: If the CPU isn't holding its rated boost clock (check your CPU's specs), thermal throttling is the cause.
  • Thermal throttling flag: HWiNFO64 has a specific "thermal throttling" sensor — if it ever reads "Yes," you need a better cooler.

Best Budget CPU Coolers (2026)

CoolerTypePriceBest For
Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SEDual-tower air~$35Best budget cooler — rivals $70+ coolers
ID-COOLING SE-226-XTSingle-tower air~$28Great for mid-range CPUs in tight cases
DeepCool AK400Single-tower air~$25Cheapest meaningful upgrade from stock
Thermalright Assassin X 120 R SESingle-tower air~$20Ultra-budget, still beats any stock cooler

The Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE is the standout value. At ~$35, it performs within 2–3°C of coolers costing twice as much and will keep virtually any gaming CPU well below throttling temperatures.


5. Add Case Fans — Cost: $15–$30 | Impact: 3–8% FPS + Better Stability

Many pre-built PCs and budget builds ship with just one or two case fans — usually a single rear exhaust. This creates a negative-pressure environment where hot air has no efficient path out of the case, and your GPU and CPU run hotter than they need to.

Adding intake fans to the front of your case is one of the cheapest upgrades with a surprisingly meaningful impact:

  • GPU temperatures drop 5–10°C, which means higher sustained boost clocks
  • CPU temperatures drop 3–7°C, reducing or eliminating throttling
  • More consistent frame times because components maintain stable clock speeds

What to Buy

  • Best value: Arctic P12 PST 5-pack (~$25 for five 120mm fans). These are incredibly effective for their price and the PST daisy-chain connector makes installation simple.
  • Budget single fan: Noctua NF-P12 redux (~$14) if you just need one quality fan.

Optimal Fan Configuration

For most cases, the ideal setup is:

  • 2 front intake fans (pulling cool air in)
  • 1 rear exhaust fan (pushing hot air out)
  • Optional: 1 top-rear exhaust fan

This creates positive air pressure, which means air is pushed out through gaps in the case instead of being sucked in — reducing dust buildup and keeping components cooler.


6. Replace Thermal Paste — Cost: $8–$12 | Impact: 5–15°C Temperature Drop

Thermal paste degrades over time. After 2–3 years, the thermal interface between your CPU and its cooler becomes less effective, leading to gradually increasing temperatures. If your PC used to run cool but now runs hot under the same workloads, dried-out thermal paste is likely the culprit.

How to Do It

  1. Remove your CPU cooler (usually 4 screws)
  2. Clean the old paste off the CPU and cooler base with isopropyl alcohol (90%+) and a coffee filter or lint-free cloth
  3. Apply a pea-sized dot of new thermal paste to the center of the CPU
  4. Reinstall the cooler — the mounting pressure spreads the paste evenly

The whole process takes 15 minutes and requires no special skills.

Best Thermal Paste for the Money

  • Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut (~$9 for 1g) — best performance, enough for 2–3 applications
  • Noctua NT-H1 (~$8 for 3.5g) — excellent performance, lasts for many applications
  • Arctic MX-6 (~$8 for 4g) — great value, non-conductive (safe if you apply too much)

7. Free Software Optimizations — Cost: $0 | Impact: 5–15% FPS

Before spending any money, these software fixes can recover significant performance that's being silently wasted:

Windows Power Plan

Switch to High Performance or Ultimate Performance power plan. The default "Balanced" plan aggressively downclocks your CPU to save power, which can cost 5–10% FPS in CPU-bound games.

How: Search "Power Plan" in Windows → Select "High Performance." For Ultimate Performance (hidden by default), open Command Prompt as admin and run:

powercfg -duplicatescheme e9a42b02-d5df-448d-aa00-03f14749eb61

Update GPU Drivers

Outdated GPU drivers are one of the most common causes of poor performance in new games. Both NVIDIA and AMD regularly release "game ready" drivers that can improve FPS by 5–15% in specific titles.

Disable Startup Programs

Open Task Manager (Ctrl+Shift+Esc) → Startup tab → Disable everything you don't need running at boot. Common FPS thieves:

  • Discord (runs in background — launch manually when needed)
  • Spotify desktop app
  • OneDrive sync
  • Adobe Creative Cloud
  • Hardware RGB software (Corsair iCUE, NZXT CAM, Razer Synapse)

Each unnecessary startup program consumes RAM and CPU cycles. Disabling 5–6 of them can free up 1–2GB of RAM and 5–10% of CPU capacity.

Enable Game Mode

Windows Game Mode (Settings → Gaming → Game Mode) tells Windows to prioritize your game's process and prevents Windows Update from installing updates or restarting during gameplay. It's a small but free improvement.


How to Prioritize These Upgrades for Your PC

Not every upgrade matters equally for every system. Here's how to figure out which one will give you the biggest boost:

  1. Run a scan with our PC Bottleneck Analyzer — it identifies your specific bottlenecks and tells you exactly where your system is losing performance.

  2. Check your RAM configuration first. If you're running single-channel RAM or your XMP/EXPO isn't enabled, fix these before anything else. They're the highest-impact, lowest-cost fixes.

  3. Check your storage. If your game drive is an HDD, an SSD upgrade will transform your experience even if your FPS numbers don't change dramatically — the stutter elimination alone is worth it.

  4. Check your temperatures. If your CPU is hitting 90°C+, a cooler upgrade or thermal paste replacement will recover throttled performance.

  5. Do the free stuff. Power plan, drivers, startup programs — these take 10 minutes and cost nothing.

The $100 Budget Build

If you have exactly $100 to spend and want maximum impact, here's how to allocate it:

UpgradeCostExpected Impact
Second RAM stick (dual-channel)$25–$35+20–40% in CPU-bound games
1TB SATA SSD$45Eliminates stutters, 70% faster loads
Thermal paste + Arctic P12 fan$20–$255–10°C cooler, more stable clocks
Total$90–$105Transformative improvement

What NOT to Spend Money On

Some "upgrades" that PC forums love to recommend are a waste of money at this budget level:

  • RGB RAM kits for "faster" speeds. If you already have dual-channel DDR4-3200 or DDR5-5600, going to DDR4-3600 or DDR5-6000 gains maybe 2–3% FPS. Not worth $60+.
  • NVMe SSD when you already have a SATA SSD. The difference in gaming is 1–3 seconds per load screen. Save that money for a real component upgrade.
  • "Gaming" Ethernet cables or USB drives. Marketing nonsense. A $5 Cat6 cable performs identically to a $50 "gaming" cable.
  • Windows debloating scripts from random forums. These risk system instability and rarely deliver measurable FPS gains beyond what the manual optimizations above provide.

Bottom Line

You don't need to spend $500 to fix your gaming PC. The upgrades that deliver the biggest FPS improvements are often the cheapest ones — enabling XMP in BIOS costs nothing, adding a second RAM stick costs $25, and a budget SSD costs $45. Combined, these three changes can transform a stuttery, underperforming gaming experience into a smooth one.

Before you upgrade anything, run your system through our free PC Bottleneck Analyzer to find out exactly where your performance is being lost. It takes 60 seconds and tells you precisely which of these upgrades will make the biggest difference for your specific hardware.

The best upgrade is always the one that fixes your actual bottleneck — not the one with the flashiest marketing.

Find Your Bottleneck

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